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Table of Contents
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Hard Water
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Water Basics
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Water is generally classified
into two groups: Surface Water and Ground Water. Surface water is just what the
name implies; it is water found in a river, lake or other surface impoundment.
This water is usually not very high in mineral content, and many times is called
"soft water" even though it usually is not. Surface water is exposed to many
different contaminants, such as animal wastes, pesticides, insecticides,
industrial wastes, algae and many other organic materials. Even surface water
found in a pristine mountain stream possibly contains Giardia or Coliform
Bacteria from the feces of wild animals, and should be boiled or disinfected by
some means prior to drinking.
Ground Water is that which is
trapped beneath the ground. Rain that soaks into the ground, rivers that
disappear beneath the earth, melting snow are but a few of the sources that
recharge the supply of underground water. Because of the many sources of
recharge, ground water may contain any or all of the contaminants found in
surface water as well as the dissolved minerals it picks up during it's long
stay underground. Waters that contains dissolved minerals, such as calcium and
magnesium above certain levels are considered "hard water" Because water is
considered a "solvent", ie, over time it can break down the ionic bonds that
hold most substances together, it tends to dissolve and 'gather up' small
amounts of whatever it comes in contact with. For instance, in areas of the
world where rock such as limestone, gypsum, fluorspar, magnetite, pyrite and
magnesite are common, well water is usually very high in calcium content, and
therefore considered "hard".
Due to the different
characteristics of these two types of water, it is important that you know the
source of your water -- Surface or Ground. Of the 326 million cubic miles of
water on earth, only about 3% of it is fresh water; and 3/4 of that is frozen.
Only 1/2 of 1% of all water is underground; about 1/50th of 1% of all water is
found in lakes and streams. The average human is about 70% water. You can only
survive 5 or less days without water.
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Hard
Water
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What is Hard Water
?
Hard water is the most common problem found in the average home. Hard
water is water that contains dissolved hardness minerals above 1 GPG.
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What are hardness minerals
?
Calcium, manganese and magnesium are the most common.
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How do you Measure Hardness
?
Parts per million or grains per gallon are the most common. One
part per million (PPM) is just what it says: out of one million units, one unit.
Grains, or grains per gallon (GPG) is a weight measurement taken from the
Egyptians; one dry grain of wheat, or about 1/7000 of a pound. It takes 17.1 PPM
to equal 1 GPG.
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Why Should Hard Water Concern Me
?
For many uses, it would not matter. For instance, to put out fires,
water your lawn, wash the mud off the streets or float your boat, water would
have to be pretty hard to cause a problem. But for bathing, washing dishes and
clothes, shaving, washing your car and many other uses of water, hard water is
not as efficient or convenient as "soft water." For instance:
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you use only 1/2 as much soap
cleaning with soft water.
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because hard water and soap
combine to form "soap scum" that can't be rinsed off, forming a 'bathtub ring'
on all surfaces and drys leaving unsightly spots on your dishes.
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when hard water is heated, the
hardness minerals are re-crystallized to form hardness scale. This scale can
plug your pipes and hot water heater, causing premature failure, necessitating
costly replacement.
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the soap scum remains on your
skin even after rinsing, clogging the pores of your skin and coating every hair
on your body. This crud can serve as a home for bacteria, causing diaper rash,
minor skin irritation and skin that continually itches.
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for many industrial uses, the
hardness minerals interfere with the process, causing inferior product.
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Who Will Test My Water for Hardness
?
If you are connected to a municipal supply, call the water
Superintendent, or City Hall. They can either provide the answer, or direct you
to the proper individual. Remember the conversion factor: it takes 17.1 PPM to
equal 1 GPG. In other words, if your water has 171 PPM calcium in it, divide 171
by 17.1 to get the answer in grains. This example would be 10 grains, or
GPG.
If you are on a private supply,
you could contact your county extension agent: collect a sample in an approved
container and send to the city or state health department for testing: find a
testing lab (try the yellow pages). By the way, if you are on a private well,
YOU, AND YOU ALONE are responsible for the safety of the water you and your
family drink. You should test your supply for bacteria at least once per year
and other contaminants at least every three years -- more under certain
conditions.
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My Water is Hard; Now What ?
If
your water tests over 3 GPG hard, you should mechanically soften it. Softening
water that is less than 3 GPG, while it makes your shaving and bathing more
comfortable, is considered a luxury due to the fact that the cost is more than
your savings. Over 3 GPG, you will save enough to pay for the cost and
maintenance of a water conditioner.
As of this writing, the most
economical way for you to soften your household water is with an ion exchange
water softener. This unit uses sodium chloride (salt) to recharge man made
plastic like beads that exchange hardness minerals for sodium. As the hard water
passes through and around the plastic like beads, the hardness minerals (ions)
attach themselves to the bead, dislodging the sodium ions. This process is
called "ion exchange". When the plastic bead, called Resin, has no sodium ions
left, it is exhausted, and can soften no more water. The resin is recharged by
flushing with salt water. The sodium ions force the hardness ions off the resin
beads; then the excess sodium is rinsed away, and the resin is ready to start
the process all over again. This cycle can be repeated many, many time before
the resin loses it's ability to react to these forces.
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What Should I look for in a
Water Conditioner ?
Make sure to choose a unit that has enough resin
to treat all the water you and your family will use. As of this writing, the
average usage per day, per person (including children), for inside the house is
87 gallons. You should also be shown two or three ways to initiate recharging
the unit.
Initiate recharge is by
electronic sensing. By electronically checking the resin, these units can
determine when the resin needs to be recharged -- this is a great help when your
water hardness changes, when you have extra company or when you are gone for a
few days. These 'sensor' units can save you up to 42% of your salt and recharge
water as well as keep you in soft water when you have extra guests.
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I Have a Water
Conditioner, Now my Water Feels "Slimy"
When the hardness minerals
are removed, soap no longer forms a soap curd, or "bathtub ring" on your skin,
plugging your pores, clinging to every strand of hair. You are now truly clean.
That slick, slimy feeling you feel is your natural body oils -- without the soap
scum. The old saying that you get "squeaky clean" is a myth; that feeling was
caused by the soap scum on your skin. By the way, that soap scum provided an
excellent place for bacteria to hide and grow, causing numerous minor skin
ailments.
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Water that Smells
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My Water Stinks! What can I Do
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First, you must learn a little about your nose: Once you smell some
things, your sense of smell is dulled for a short while, and you can't make
accurate judgments of smell. For instance, if I blindfold you, let you smell
gasoline, hand you a piece of onion to eat and tell you it is an apple, you
can't tell it's not because your nose isn't working properly!! (Your sense of
taste isn't working either -- smell and taste are closely related and affect
each other!)
So, to correctly analyze your
problem, you need to become a detective. The best time to locate the smell is
after you have been away from home for a few hours -- this allows your nose to
become sensitive to "that smell" again. With your 'sensitized' nose, go to an
outside spigot -- one that the raw, untreated water flows from. Turn it on, let
it run a few minutes, then smell it. If it smells -- we found it. If not, we
must look further. (Many, many smells are not in the raw water at all, they are
introduced into the water inside the house.) Go to a cold, treated water spigot
inside the house, turn it on and let it run a minute; then smell. If this water
smells, and the outside, untreated water didn't -- you must have a device
(cartridge filter, water softener, etc.) in the water line that needs to be
cleaned and sanitized.
If it is a cartridge, replace
the element and sanitize the housing. If you have a water conditioner sanitize
the unit. You can sanitize the unit by pouring Hydrogen Peroxide or Chlorine
Bleach in the brine well of the salt tank, and placing the unit into
regeneration. Refer to product installation and maintenance instructions.
If the cold, treated water
inside didn't smell, turn on the hot water and let it run a few minutes -- does
it smell? If it does, chances are you have a sacrificial anode inside your hot
water heater that is "coming apart at the seams" and throwing off a "rotten egg"
odor. This obnoxious smell will drive you right out of your shower! The only
solution is to remove the anode from the heater, voiding your warranty, or
replace it with a new one made with aluminum alloy. This anode is placed in a
(glass lined) hot water heater to seal up any cracks in the glass lining and
prevent corrosion of the heater tank. You will find the anode on the top of the
heater; remove the tin cover and insulation -- look for what looks like a pipe
plug -- about 3/4 inch in size with a 1 1/16"fitting. Turn off the heat source
and the water; have someone hold the tank to prevent it from turning, and
unscrew the "plug". You will find that the 'plug' has a 30 - 40 " long pipe (or
what's left of one) attached to it. Hopefully, most of the rod is still attached
-- just corroded. If so, replace the plug with a real pipe plug and throw the
anode away. If part of the rod has corroded off, and fallen into the heater, you
may have to try to fish it out. Either way, before you plug the hole, pour about
2 pints of chlorine bleach into the heater first. This will kill the smell left
in the heater. If, after a week or so, the smell returns, you must fish out the
rod that is in the bottom of the tank. Good Luck!
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OK, It's my Raw Water That
Smells -- Now What ?
First, you must determine what is causing the
smell, and how strong it is.
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Minor, musty smell
If it is a minor, or
low-level smell, you MIGHT be able to solve it with a small, point-of-use
kdf/carbon filter. You can place these types of filters on kitchen counter,
undersink, shower, inline going to the cold water where you draw you drinking
water. Or, you might solve it with a whole-house filter on your incoming water
line to filter all of the water inside your home.
You must be careful not to
exceed the manufactures recommended flow -- some filters even have a flow
restriction built in them. If you run water through them too fast, you will not
remove the smells. Whenever you place a carbon filter in your water line, you
must be sure to replace the element and sanitize the housing on a regular basis.
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Strong, rotten-egg smell
Strong,
rotten-egg odors in the raw water is usually the result of the decomposition of
decaying underground organic deposits. As water is drawn to the surface,
hydrogen sulfide gas can be released to the atmosphere. In strong
concentrations, this gas is flammable and poisonous. It rapidly tarnishes
silver, turning it black. It is toxic to aquarium fish in sufficient quantities.
As little as 0.5 ppm hydrogen sulfide can be tasted in your drinking water.
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Strong, musty smell
There are many basic
filters to solve this problem.
Filters
Installation of a whole house filter loaded with
a media that is specific for hydrogen sulfide removal is successful many times.
These types of filters must be recharged with chlorine or potassium
permanganate. The removal capacities of these types of filters are usually
fairly low, and must be sized to contain enough media to prevent premature
exhaustion, and subsequent passage of the smell to service. It is also typical
that the amount of hydrogen sulfide can fluctuate rapidly, causing great
difficulty in sizing the unit. In addition, potassium permanganate is extremely
"messy", and will leave stains that are very difficult to remove.
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Water that Stains
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I have Red
Stains in my Sinks and Other Fixtures -- Help!
Red stains are
normally caused by iron in the water. You must test to determine the amount and
the type of iron you have. Some types are: oxidized, soluble, colloidal,
bacteria or organic-bound. All are a problem! It only takes 0.3 ppm to stain
clothes, fixtures, etc.
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Oxidized
This type of iron is usually found in a
surface water supply. This is water that contains red particles when first drawn
from the tap. The easiest way to remove this type of iron is by a fine
mechanical filter.
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Soluable
Soluble iron is called "clear water" iron.
After being drawn form the well and contacting the air, the iron oxidizes, or
"rusts", forming reddish brown particles in the water. Depending on the amount
of iron in the water, you may solve this problem with a water conditioner, or a
combination of softener and filter. You may use an iron filter that recharges
with chlorine or potassium permanganate, or feed chemicals to oxidize the iron
and then filter it with a mechanical filter. You can sometimes hide the effects
of soluble iron by adding chemicals that, in effect, coat the iron in the water
and prevent it from reaching oxygen and oxidizing.
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Colloidal
Colloidal iron is very small particles of
oxidized iron suspended in the water. They are usually bound together with other
substances. They resist agglomeration, ie, the combining together of like
substances forming larger, heavier, more filterable ones, due to the static
electrical charge they carry. This iron looks more like a color than particles
when held up in a clear glass, as they are so small. Treatment is usually one of
two: Feed chlorine to oxidize the organic away from the iron, thus allowing
agglomeration to occur, or, feeding polymers that attract the static charge on
the particles, forming larger clumps of matter that is filterable.
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Bacterial
Iron bacteria are living organisms that feed
on the iron found in the water, pipes, fittings, etc. They build slime all along
the water flow path. Occasionally, the slimy growths break free, causing
extremely discolored water. If a large slug breaks loose, it can pass through to
the point of use, plugging fixtures. These types of bacteria are becoming more
common throughout the United States. If you suspect bacteria iron, look for a
reddish or green slime buildup in your toilet flush tank. To confirm your
suspicions, gather a sample of this slime and take it to your local health
department, or water department for observation under the microscope. This type
of iron problem is very hard to eliminate. You must kill the bacteria, usually
by chlorination. You must use high amounts of chlorine throughout your plumbing
system to kill all organisms. You may find it necessary to feed chlorine
continuously to prevent regrowth. A filter alone will not solve this
problem.
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Organic bound
When iron combines with tannins
and other organics, complexes are formed that cannot be removed by ion exchange
or oxidizing filters. This iron may be mistaken for colloidal iron. Test for
tannins; if they are present, it is most likely combined with the iron. Low
level amounts of this pest can be removed by use of a kdf/carbon filter, which
absorbs the complex. You must replace the bed when it becomes saturated. Higher
amounts require feeding chlorine to oxidize the organics to break apart from the
iron and cause both to precipitate into a filterable particle.
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I Have Blue or Green
Stains on my Fixtures -- Help!
You either have copper in your water
supply, or you have copper pipes and corrosive water. Test for copper in your
water. Test the pH, total dissolved solids content and the oxygen content of
your water.
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Copper
Copper can be removed by ion exchange, ie, a water
softener. The removal rate is about the same as it is for iron.
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Copper pipes and corrosive
water
If your pH is from 5 to 7, you may raise it by passing the
water through a sacrificial media. By sacrificing calcium carbonate into the
water, the corrosively will be reduced. If the pH is below 5, you will need to
feed chemicals into the water.
If the corrosively is caused by
excess oxygen, the hot water will be much more corrosive than the cold.
Treatment is by feeding polyphosphate or silicates to coat and protect the
plumbing, or to aeriate the water to release the excess oxygen.
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Water and Health /
Disease
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What is Cryptosporidiosis
?
Cryptosporidiosis is a disease caused by the parasite
Cryptosporidium parvum, which as late as 1976 was not known to cause disease in
humans. Until 1993, when over 400,000 people in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, became ill
with diarrhea after drinking contaminated with the parasite, few people had
heard of either crytosporidiosis or the single-celled protozoon that causes it.
Since the Milwaukee outbreak,
concern over the safety of drinking water in the United States has increased,
and new attention has been focused on determining and reducing the risk for
cryptosporidiosis from community and municipal water supplies.
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Water Testing Information
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When Should I test ?
Several factors will
influence when and how often you test your water. Where do get your water from?
Has that source changed? Have you done any plumbing changes lately? Is there
reason to believe that your water is contaminated? Is there a sickness or
illness in your family affecting more than one person and over a longer than
normal time period?
If you receive your water from
a "Public Supply", ie, a municipal supply, or a supply that provides water to
more than 25 persons for 60 days per year (some states are different -- check
with YOUR local water department), you can be fairly certain that the water
supply is checked on a regular basis. The frequency of the testing is based on
the number of people served, and may vary from more than once per week to once
per month, or even less. Under these conditions, test when you move into a new
residence to acquire a "base line" of contaminant level, if any. Retest every
three years, unless you have reason to believe that something has changed that
could affect the quality of your water.
If you have a private well, you
are the only person who is responsible for the water your family drinks and
bathes in. I recommend testing by your local Health Department every six months
for Bacteria and Nitrate. These two tests serve as indicators for other types of
contaminations -- that is not to say forget the other tests; just that if you
get a "bad" test from them, you should also retest for the other types of
contaminants as well. Private wells should be tested on a regular basis for
Pesticides, Herbicides, Metals, Organic and Inorganic chemicals and volatiles.
Currently, no laws govern the frequency of such testing -- that is why YOU are
the only person responsible for your family's water. I recommend an initial test
(for a base line), and then at least once per year. Remember, one day after
testing and finding "no contaminants", your source could become
contaminated.
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What Could I Test For ?
Coliform
bacteria are a group of microorganisms that are normally found in the intestinal
tract of humans and other warm blooded animals, and in surface water. The
presence of these organisms in drinking water suggest contamination from a
surface or shallow subsurface source such as cesspool leakage, barnyard runoff
or other source. The presence of these bacteria indicate that disease-causing
(pathogenic) organisms may enter the drinking water supply in the same manner if
preventive action is not taken. Drinking water should be free of coliforms.
Cysts and viruses are
microbiological contaminants, usually found in surface water supplies. Giardia
lamblia cysts can cause giardiasis, a gastrointestinal disease. Another "bug"
getting a lot of attention lately, is cryptosporidium, single-cell parasite
measuring about 2 - 5 microns in diameter. Many surface water supplies contain
this pest, which also comes from the intestine of warm blooded animals.
Nitrate in drinking water
supplies may reduce the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood (cyanosis) if
ingested in sufficient amounts by infants under 6 months of age. This could
cause a disease called "methemoglobinemia", or "blue baby" syndrome. The EPA has
established a maximum contaminant level (MCL) for nitrate at 10 mg/l (ppm)
measured as N. Unlike coliform or other types of bacteria, boiling the water
will actually INCREASE the amount of nitrate remaining in the water, increasing
the danger to infants. If you have high nitrate water, treate the water with
water treatment system or find another source: Boiling will only make it
worse!
Lead is now known to leach from
older sweat joints in copper pipe. As the water sits in the pipes, small amounts
of lead 'dissolve' into the water, contaminating it. Lead is particularly
harmful to small children as they more rapidly absorb the toxic substance into
their systems. The EPA has estimated that more than 40 million U.S. residents
use water that contains more than the recommended levels.
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What are Some Naturally Occurring Sources of Pollution?
Microorganisms: Bacteria, viruses, parasites and other microorganisms are sometimes found in water. Shallow wells — those with water close to ground level — are at most risk. Runoff, or water flowing over the land surface, may pick up these pollutants from wildlife and soils. This is often the case after flooding. Some of these organisms can cause a variety of illnesses. Symptoms include nausea and diarrhea. These can occur shortly after drinking contaminated water. The effects could be short-term yet severe (similar to food poisoning) or might recur frequently or develop slowly over a long time. Radionuclides: Radionuclides areradioactive elements such as uranium and radium. They may be present in underlying rock and ground water.
Radon — a gas that is a natural product of the breakdown of uranium in the soil — can also pose a threat. Radon is most dangerous when inhaled and contributes to lung cancer. Although soil is the primary source, using household water containing Radon contributes to elevated indoor Radon levels. Radon is less dangerous when consumed in water, but remains a risk to health.
Nitrates and Nitrites: Although high nitrate levels are usually due to human activities (see below), they may be found naturally in ground water. They come from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds in the soil. Flowing ground water picks them up from the soil. Drinking large amounts of nitrates and nitrites is particularly threatening to infants (for example, when mixed in formula). Heavy Metals: Underground rocks and soils may contain arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, and selenium. However, these contaminants are not often found in household wells at dangerous levels from natural sources.
Fluoride: Fluoride is helpful in dental health, so many water systems add small amounts to drinking water. However, excessive consumption of naturally occurring fluoride can damage bone tissue. High levels of fluoride occur naturally in some areas. It may discolor teeth, but this is not a health risk
What Human Activities Can Pollute Ground water?
Bacteria and Nitrates: These pollutants are found in human and animal wastes. Septic tanks can cause bacterial and nitrate pollution. So can large numbers of farm animals. Both septic systems and animal manures must be carefully managed to prevent pollution. Sanitary landfills and garbage dumps are also sources. Children and some adults are at extra risk when exposed to water-born bacteria. These include the elderly and people whose immune systems are weak due to AIDS or treatments for cancer. Fertilizers can add to nitrate problems. Nitrates cause a health threat in very young infants called “blue baby” syndrome. This condition disrupts oxygen flow in the blood.
Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs):
The number of CAFOs, often called “factory farms,” is growing. On these farms thousands of animals are raised in a small space. The large amounts of animal wastes/manures from these farms can threaten water supplies. Strict and careful manure management is needed to prevent pathogen and nutrient problems. Salts from high levels of manures can also pollute groundwater. Heavy Metals: Activities such as mining and construction can release large amounts of heavy metals into nearby ground water sources. Some older fruit orchards may contain high levels of arsenic, once used as a pesticide. At high levels, these metals pose a health risk.
Fertilizers and Pesticides:
Farmers use fertilizers and pesticides to promote growth and reduce insect damage. These products are also used on golf courses and suburban lawns and gardens. The chemicals in these products may end up in ground water. Such pollution depends on the types and amounts of chemicals used and how they are applied. Local environmental conditions (soil types, seasonal snow and rainfall) also affect this pollution. Many fertilizers contain forms of nitrogen that can break down into harmful nitrates. This could add to other sources of nitrates mentioned above. Some underground agricultural drainage systems collect fertilizers and pesticides. This polluted water can pose problems to ground water and local streams and rivers. In addition, chemicals used to treat buildings and homes for termites or other pests may also pose a threat. Again, the possibility of problems depends on the amount and kind of chemicals. The types of soil and the amount of water moving through the soil also play a role.
Industrial Products and Wastes:
Many harmful chemicals are used widely in local business and industry. These can become drinking water pollutants if not well managed. The most common sources of such problems are:
• Local Businesses: These include nearby factories, industrial plants, and even small businesses such as gas stations and dry cleaners. All handle a variety of hazardous chemicals that need careful management. Spills and improper disposal of these chemicals or of industrial wastes can threaten ground water supplies.
• Leaking Underground Tanks & Piping: Petroleum products, chemicals, and wastes stored in underground storage tanks and pipes may end up in the ground water. Tanks and piping leak if they are constructed or installed improperly. Steel tanks and piping corrode with age. Tanks are often found on farms. The possibility of leaking tanks is great on old, abandoned farm sites. Farm tanks are exempt from the EPA rules for petroleum and chemical tanks.
• Landfills and Waste Dumps: Modern landfills are designed to contain any leaking liquids. But floods can carry them over the barriers. Older dumpsites may have a wide variety of pollutants that can seep into ground water.
These and many other reasons are why water purification systems are essential for private wells and public utility sources
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Why Use Water Filtration Systems At Home?
Just because you are on a municipal system, doesn't mean that you don't need a drinking water filtration system in your home. The Safe Drinking Water Act (SDWA) helps but it does not regulate all possible contaminants. The is even truer if you are on a private well.
There are many factors that impact the quality of water that comes out of your household tap. The water treatment plant adds chemicals to the water through the process of treating the water, which may become contaminants with potential health risks. Some of these water treatment chemicals may not be eliminated and can be transported in the water to your home. Municipal water treatment plants can not remove every possible contaminant in water. The (SDWA) sets legal limits for certain contaminants that consider human health and the ability of municipal water treatment systems to achieve these levels based on available technology. Considering the average person uses 100 gallons per day, there is a tremendous load on a municipal treatment system to meet the SDWA standards. 90% of people that get their water from a community source are serviced from a medium to very large system (serve 3,301 to 100,000 people). Your local water filtration systems may be responsible for delivering 330,100 to 10,000,000 gallons per day. With this kind of demand, it may not be economically feasible for a municipal treatment facility to remove certain contaminants to a level that will have no health risk to humans.
If you are bottling your own water in jugs at a local supply, you may be putting yourself at risk. Storage requires specific guidelines to prevent bacteria growth during storage. Containers should be sterilized prior to filling and contamination is easy during the filling process. Direct light has an impact on storage as well as the room temperature.
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Some Tips To Help Conserve By Using Less & Not Wasting:
Don't let the tap run while shaving or brushing teeth.
Take short showers instead of tub baths.
Keep drinking water in the refrigerator instead of letting the faucet run until it is cool.
Scrape, rather than rinse, dishes before loading into the dishwasher; wash only full loads.
Wash only full loads of laundry or use the appropriate level or load size selection on the washing machine.
Buy high-efficient plumbing fixtures & appliances.
Repair all leaks (a leaky toilet can waste 200 gallons a day).
Irrigate the lawn or garden during the coolest part of the day (early morning is best).
Water plants differently according to what they need. Check with your local extension service or nurseries for advice.
Set sprinklers to cover the lawn or garden only – not the street or sidewalk.
Use soaker hoses or trickle irrigation systems for trees and shrubs.
Keep your yard healthy - dethatch, use mulch, etc.
Sweep outside instead of using a hose
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